Microwave oven front panel keypad repair and modification








Here is the video on youtube. You must watch it if you are a Urdu to Hindi viewer:




Here is the video on youtube. You must watch it if you are an English viewer:




The microwave oven is a useful machine to preheat or cook food. The microwave oven is working reliably but now a days Chinese microwave oven have big front panel keypad failure. The keypad is breaking down in one year of less time. The repair is not easy and sometimes the replacement parts are not readily available then it becomes another problem. The solution to such a problem is a modification with existing easily available parts and some wire connections to the main board. The modification is a very robust an reliable work so that will never break down or if breaks down, the repair would be way easy and low cost.

Here is a little detail with images is included for such a modification work. Most of the images are from the video associated with this blog post. Anyhow it will further explain the important points.

Here is the schematic diagram for the unit keypad:



Here is the front panel for the microwave oven.



First we will open all three or four screws with is holding the main PCB to the front panel.



No we will open the keypad connector for the keypad ribbon cable. So we will be able to remove the keypad ribbon cable from the main board blue connector.



Now we will peal off the front panel plastic sheet which is label also for the microwave oven. It is stick by glue. Sometimes you may need hot air to remove it from the front panel.




Then peal off the key pad from the front plastic label sheet. The keypad is made of two sheets of plastic. it contains circuit for keys.




Now mark all keys using a sharp object like a nail, needle or a knife to make the keys impressions and mark all keys centers on the front panel.



All the marks should be very much clearly visible and should be center punched for drilling.



Now select appropriate size drill bit. The drill bit should be the size of the micro switch used for keypad.





Do holes using drill machine on all marks for keys. The holes should be of enough size so that the switches should come off of the holes.





Take a PCB sheet and populate all micro switches on that according to holes drilled  on the front panel holes. For micro switches you should have to drill holes to accumulate all switches.




The switches should come out of the front panel like the image below when the key pad board is fixed in the front panel.




the rear side of the keypad board should look like the following after cabling and interconnection.




Here is another image for the above to show it a little more clearly. There is clearly shown the keypad and main board connections.





Testing:

Testing of the board is straight forward. We would have to supply the board with 220V AC mains on P and N lines marked on main PCB. This is sometimes mentioned on main PCB and sometimes one can do it with his or her understanding of the circuit if not clearly mentioned. Also there is one small jumper needed to tell the main PCB that the oven door is closed. That jumper is actually replacing the oven door switches which is an interlock for the oven to operate only in case when the oven door is shut. That jumper we will temporarily solder to the board and then after testing we will discard it.


Here is the 220V AC mains connection on the main PCB.




Here is the jumper soldered to the DOM terminals on the connector to translate the closed door interlock to the main PCB.



Here we are testing the system by pressing on the start 30 second button after powering the unit up. So the unit switched on and got 30 second command and started reverse counting when pressed on the button. In this way we will test all switches for proper functionality.



Hope this will help people having same problem with their microwave oven. Anyhow I am giving such service to make such modification if one is not able to do it. You can contact me for such modification if you are in need.









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World's smallest audio amplifier class D HT6872





Here is the youtube video for such product review:


The HT6872 is the world smallest audio amplifier which is a class D design. If you are looking for a small 1"x 1" stereo amplifier board, the HT6872 from ICStation.com is the best choice for you. Here is the product detail:



Product Introduction:
1.Anti-clipping function 
2.Excellent full bandwidth EMI suppression performance 
3.Free of filter digital modulation,and it can directly drive loudspeakers
4.Output Power:1.40W (3.6V);2.82W (5.0V);4.71W (6.5V)
5.Good click-pop noise suppression performance 
6.High Signal Noise Rate:87dB
7.Low Quiescent Current:2.64mA (3.6V);3.26mA (5.0V);4.04mA (6.5V)
8.Low Turn-off Current:0.01uA 
9.Overcurrent protection and automatic recovery function 
10.Overheat protection function 

11. Under voltage exception protection function 

You can off course use such product in numerous applications. The use is over your requirement. Here are a few very common and typical uses of this product:

Applications:
1.Portable voice box
2.Iphone/Ipad/MP3 docking 
3.PMP/MP4/MP5 player 
4.Portable game machine
5.PDAs
6.USB voice box 
7.Tablet computers 
8.GPS
9.Cellphones 
10. Intercome
11. Answering machine
12. Telephone amplifier

This product uses the chip HT6872 which have pin detials and description as below.









1.CTRL:ACF mode and turn-off mode control port 
2.BYPASS:analog reference voltage 
3.IN+:reverse phase input port (differential -)
4.IN+:in-phase input port (differential +)
5.OUT+:in-phase output (BTL+)
6.VDD:power 
7.GND:ground 
8.OUT-:reverse phase output port (BTL-)
Input Configuration:
1.HT6872 receives analog differential or single port audio signal input,and it will generate PWM pulse output signal to drive the loudspeaker 
2.Differential Input:DC block capacitor Cin and input resistor Rin respectively input IN+ and IN- port.System gain Av=200/Rin,input RC high speed filter cut-off frequency f=1/2π(RinCin)
3.Single Port Input:Cin optocoupling to IN+ port.IN- port should connect with ground by input resistor and capacitor (the same as Cin and R?in);gain Av and turn-off frequency f is the same as differential input 
4.Please make sure that system front circuit output impedance Zout should be no more than 600 ohm.








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MPPT Solar Charge Controller

MPPT Solar Charge Controller






• The 12/24V 3-Stage Solar Charge Controller is a genuine MPPT charge controller. The Mosfet is a switching type and is driven with a PWM signal. An inductor is used to convert the voltage and current for maximum power transfer from the solar panel.
We do not make any commercial products. You can build the charger using available parts or a kit from Jaycar (Cat. KC5500,
www.jaycar.com.au).Note, that we published a revised version of this project in the February and March 2016 issues which provides a higher charging current and greater efficiency and a revised kit is also available.
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Simple low-battery alarm

Simple low-battery alarm






Having been inconvenienced by a flat car battery at home more than once, I would love a simple low battery alarm that could be direct-connected to the battery terminals, that would let out an ear-piercing sound if the battery was discharged below a
threshold voltage.
Would you consider publishing a suitable circuit/kit that would activate a suitable relay? Now I don't know what voltage would be a safe threshold voltage to activate the alarm-perhaps between 10.5V and 11.5V?
But I do know that having a time delay of approximately one minute would be necessary to prevent nuisance alarms because of starting the engine. (C. D., Auckland, NZ) • We published a couple of battery saver projects, one in July 2004 ("Versatile Micropower Battery Protector", by Peter Smith) and one in September 2013 ("LifeSaver for Lithium or SLA batteries", by Nicholas Vinen) but unfortunately, both work by disconnecting the load when the battery voltage gets low, which is not what you're asking for.
Also, neither comes close to handling the current that can be drawn from a car battery during starting.
Having said that, you could build the Battery LifeSaver and leave off Mosfet Ql, then connect a 5V piezo buzzer between the 5V output of REGl and the output (pin 6) of ICl. The piezo would then sound when the battery voltage drops below the set threshold.
A time delay can be accomplished by drastically increasing the value of the l0nF capacitor at pin 3 of ICl; you can probably fit an SMD ceramic capacitor of up to 100µF here, which would give a time delay of a minute or two.
For a 12V lead acid battery, a good alarm point would be 11.5V but a car battery can be expected to drop below that value while cranking the engine. Keep in mind that when the piezo sounds, to warn you that the battery
 voltage is low, its current draw will only speed up the battery discharging! 
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